The 5k That Became a 15k

As I've become older, I've come to enjoy jogging less and less.  I've never been partial to longer distances since I only ran 100s and 200s in high school, but the last two or three years, it's been worse.  Here is the recreation of a conversation LG and I had a few weeks ago in Okoboji that illustrates my increased antipathy for running.

TK: I'm going running.  Do you want to go?
LG: How are far you going?
TK: A mile or so.
LG: That's not even worth going!
TK: That's the perfect distance.
(Ten minutes later.)
LG: How was your run?
TK: I despise running. Every step I wished I wasn't running.

I did that mile because LG had signed Garv and me up for a 5k (3.1 miles) and herself for a half-marathon in Santiago on Sunday, August 9.  So I knew I had to do at least a little training in Okoboji.  In Santiago, I was able to run a little more because there's very little humidity, but regardless a 5k was the perfect distance from me...or so I thought.

Pre-race

Besides LG, Garv, and I, LG's friend, Kathy, was going to run the half with her and LG's friend, Laurie, was going to run the 5k with us.  Shortly after we took this picture, Laurie examined the map and this approximate conversation took place.

Laurie: Where's the 10k route?

Garv: There is no 10k route.  Only a 5 or 15.

Laurie: I thought I was doing a 10k.  I've been running 10k's to prepare.  Do you guys want to run the 15?

Garv/TK: No (and some other statements of general hesitancy)
Garv: But a 5k is hardly worth getting out of bed for.  I had to wake up two hours before the 5k even started when I could have slept in, and ran a 5k on my own.

So before the race, Garv and I were strongly leaning toward the 5k, but Laurie wanted to do the 15k.  Eventually, we collectively decided that we would make the final decision of what race to do when the 5k and 15k routes split.

So the race started and we're doing great.  We pass the 1k mark and the moment of truth is approaching.  I'm not exactly sure how the conversation went and who made the final decision, but I think that it helped that we were in the left lane and the 15k went left.  If it was completely up to me, I would have done the 5k.  But Laurie had trained for a longer race and Garv wanted to justify the amount of time he was spending to run a race, so we went left...

The first 5k or so went fine, but then the next 3k went up Cerro San Cristobal (St. Christopher's Hill) and we struggled a bit with that and walked a portion of it.  I didn't mind walking it because I hadn't done enough training for nine miles.  While we were walking, LG and Kathy zoomed past us even though they had run an 6k more than us (though they also started half an hour sooner).  But shortly thereafter, we began the run again.  We cruised down the hill for about 3k.  Then we gutted out the last 4k.  Somehow, I didn't feel too bad during that last 4k, but if I was running by myself, I no doubt would have quit running and lifted weights instead.  With about 2k, I ran ahead of Garv and Laurie and finished about a minute ahead of them in seventh to last place...(because technically we were part of the 5k).

(A quick non sequitur concerning our names.  When signing up for the race, you MUST enter two last names, though you only need to enter a single first name.  This is VERY important in Chile because what family, school, church, neighborhood, etc one attended/is from is the basis for social, political, and/or economic status, etc.  Garv, in order to totally mock this convention, uses Bachelet as his second last name. Michelle Bachelet is the current president of Chile.  Before posting the blog, I sent Garv the results and here is the text he sent me: "Can't believe someone related to the presidenta ran such a slow 5k.")

5k Results

I felt pretty good after the race, amazingly, considering I haven't ran more than five miles in a long time...With that said, I have no desire to run that distance again.  I would do a 5k and maybe a 10k, but that's it.  The best way for me to run a distance as long as a 15k is for me to have no intent to do it.  Shortly after we turned left to run the 15k, I told Garv and Laurie that this was the best way to get me to do a 15k--to all of sudden do it, like what we were doing.  This way,  I didn't have time to dread doing it or spend time dreading the prospect of running the 15k or dreading training for a 15k or dreading having to train for a 15k....Despite the previous sentence, I'm really glad I did the 15!  It was even kind of fun...

Post-race: Me, Kathy, Laurie, LG, Garv

Museos

Other than my first day in Santiago, I have been unlucky with the weather.  Everyday it reminds me of one of those spring days in Iowa when the tennis, track, and golf meets are canceled because it's 45 degrees and rainy.  This has limited our ability to do some touristy things because we've been rained out of a walking tour in Santiago and Valparaiso.  So we've had to do indoor things like go to museums, which of course I'm perfectly happy with.

So far, LG and I have been to four museums in Chile and their themes are dramatically different.

Museum of Colonial Art

The Museum of Colonial Art is in the former convent of the adjacent Iglesia San Francisco.  Its primary feature is fifty-four 5x10 foot (approximated using the height of LG) paintings that depict the life of St. Francis of Assissi.  The paintings are remarkable in size and scope. (Here is a link to them.)  They were painted by an unknown Franciscan monk or monks in Peru in the 1600s.  The question that I wondered about this is "why paint these?"  One answer is that monks have a lot of time, even after their prayers and chores.  But then that leads to why paint these? The answer is that it is a long ways from Spain.  And pictures like this reinforce the mission that Franciscans had in the Americas for spreading Christianity.  So as Francis spread Christianity throughout Europe, so too, would Franciscan monks spread.

I should have taken some pictures of the paintings (illegally, of course, like most museums), but LG did take a picture of St. Francis's prayer despite the photography prohibition

On a lighter note, the paintings were displayed in galleries that ringed a central courtyard.  And the courtyard had roosters, hens, and peacocks crowing and strutting about.

Museum of Memory and Human Rights

The Museum of Memory and Human Rights is dedicated to accounting the violations of human rights during the dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet from 1973-1990 (which I visited and wrote about last year).  During the dictatorship, there were executions, assassinations, torture, disappearance, and the suspension of civil rights.  Seeing a museum a second time allowed me the opportunity to notice things I may have missed the first time.  One of the items that struck me was the brevity of Pinochet's statement on the day of the coup, September 11, 1973: "The armed forces have acted today solely from the patriotic inspiration of saving the country from the tremendous chaos into which it was being plunged by the Marxist government of Salvador Allende.… The Junta will maintain judicial power and consultantship of the Comptroller. The Chambers will remain in recess until further orders. That is all."  This statement struck me because I sometimes wonder how dictators can perpetrate such acts of violence.  This quotation demonstrates how Pinochet, in his mind, could justify the coup and his subsequent dictatorship out of patriotism, an avoidance of chaos, and an opposition to Marxism.

Pablo Neruda's Homes: La Chascona and La Sebastiana

Had he lived longer, Pablo Neruda would have been one of staunchest, and certainly the most famous, opponents of Pinochet's dictatorship.  Pablo Neruda was a Chilean poet who won the 1971 Nobel Prize for Literature.  He was also a socialist and diplomat.  Neruda died September 23, 1973, just twelve days after the coup.  Neruda's politics were very interesting, but his personal life is even more interesting...

La Chascona

LG and I visited La Chascona, Pablo Neruda's Santiago home, immediately after the Museum of Colonial art.  After going to a museum dedicated to St. Francis, devotion to god, and an ascetic lifestyle, it was quite a contrast to go to a house a Chilean poet had built for his mistress.  While St. Francis endured the stigmata, Pablo Neruda wrote poems that contained lines such as "I want to do with you what spring does to cherry trees."

As old houses go(though this one's not really old), I would rank La Chascona behind only Thomas Jefferson's Monticello and George Washington's Mount Vernon.  It was awesome for several reasons.

1. It had a name.  A house is more awesome if it has a name.

2. The name itself: La Chascona is a word of Quechua Indian origin that means wild mane of hair.  His mistress, Matilde Urrutia, had a wild mane of red hair.

This is a picture of Matilde, that represents her public face and their private relationship.  It hang in La Chascona.

3. He built the house to hide the relationship with  his mistress.  This clearly shows evidence that he spent time in France.

4. It's not a house so much as a bunch of rooms at different elevations built around a central courtyard.  I think I want a house with a central courtyard....

5. He built the exterior and interior so that it would give him and guests the sensation that he was on a boat.

The dining room.  The secret entrance is straight ahead.

6. He built everything was built with a particular purpose.  Most of the time, the purpose was for his amusement...For example, the main dining room had a secret door so that he could make surprise entrances.

La Sebastiana
Neruda also had a home he named La Sebastiana in Valparaiso, which is on the coast.  (He also had a third home on Isla Negra.)   Though this house was full of his eccentricities (such a bathroom door in his bar with holes in it), he originally acquired it to work.

And it was quite a work and living environment.  The first level was an entrance, the second level was his living room, the third level was his bedroom, and the fourth level was his study.  The pictures below are from the internet.  I couldn't take pictures and besides, it was raining heavily and our view wasn't as great.

View from the living room

View from the bedroom

For some reason, I'm now very intrigued by Neruda.  I don't even like poetry, but I'm going to go back to La Chascona and I might even buy one of his books of poetry....

August 4-5, 2015: Taking It Easy

When Garv and Lindsay decided to move to Chile, I was very excited because I knew it would give me an opportunity to spend an extended time in a different country.  Staying two weeks (like last year) or three weeks (like this year) would be too expensive if I was staying at a hotel.  Staying an extended time appealed to me because I wouldn't have to sprint through a city or country like a few of my trips. The opportunity to participate in mundane daily activities provides a fuller understanding of a culture than simply by seeing the tourist sites.  For example, I can visit New York or Washington, DC or Paris, but that is not the real New York, Washington, DC or Paris.  Also, I like spending a full three weeks in Chile because we can have a very leisurely (and Chilean-like) schedule.   (And according to my sister, spending three weeks here gives me time to "bond with your sister").

My first day in Chile (Tuesday, August 4, 2015) was a perfect example of the leisurely schedule.  Day 1 consisted of unpacking, napping, going out to lunch, grocery shopping, planning the rest of the week, dinner and bedtime.  

Garv and Lindsay live on the 20th floor of an apartment building in the Las Condes district of Santiago.  It has a stunning view, too.  

The view from their apartment

They truly live a city lifestyle.  They have a vehicle, but they usually only use it on the weekends.  So when they conduct their mundane business that most Americans (except those who live in Manhattan, downtown Chicago, or a few other city centers) would use a car for, they walk.

Since they can't just go to Hy-Vee, Fareway, or Wal-mart, they have five main ways of acquiring groceries.

1. Bring items from the states:  This picture is a sample of the items that they brought back to Chile.

2. Have someone do the shopping for her: There is a business called La Vega Delivery in which the customer submits an order and someone from LVD goes to the market, buys those items, and delivers them.  She simply filled something out online on Tuesday and this was waiting for her on Wednesday.

3. Order their groceries online, which sounds a lot like La Vega Delivery.  But they can't do that because they need a Chilean credit card, which apparently is very complex...

4. Go to the Jumbo supermarket, which is a Wal-mart sized grocery store.  To do that, she walks or takes the metro to the store and then takes a taxi back home with all of her groceries.

5. Go to the Unimarc grocery store, which is a Majere's Foodtown (the grocery store in Remsen) sized grocery store.  To do that, she walks a few blocks with her cute blue (obviously, they didn't have pink) cart, which is what we did.

LG walking with her empty cart

The grocery store really isn't that different, but it is a strange phenomenon to walk six blocks or so to the grocery store.  For example, I live four blocks from the Estherville Hy-Vee and five blocks from Fareway, but it would never cross my mind to walk to the grocery store.  But then again, I don't have a cute, blue, flowery cart with which to transport my groceries, which I'm doing in the picture below.  And that little cart has $90 worth of groceries; food is expensive in Chile!

Despite ordering groceries and going grocery shopping, we still didn't have anything to eat that night.  Garv went right to work on Tuesday so he didn't feel like going out.  So we did the most logical thing--pick up LG's favorite, empanandas!  So we bought three of these, each for $2 (it's the best food value in Chile), and enjoyed them that evening.

My second day (Wednesday, August 5, 2015) in Chile we did some site seeing from 10 AM-1 PM (which I will discuss in a subsequent post), but once again it was filled with mundane tasks.  We met Garv for lunch, I used some Spanish to buy postcards, did some writing, worked out, and ate at the apartment.  The evening concluded with a visit from some of Garv's and LG's friends, Rob and Melissa.  They came over for a couple of hours to hear about Garv's and LG's time in Okoboji and to catch up.  Rob is Canadian and Melissa is Australian, and like all Canadians and Australians I've met, they're a lot of fun.  It was also nice to meet some of their friends because when I visited Chile last year, they didn't know anyone outside of Garv's work.  It was very relaxed and very enjoyable and just the type of experience that I could only have if I was spending an extended time in Chile...

Okoboji: Connections to the Past

I will be submitting the following essay for the BBC's History Magazine Inspiring History Writing competition (sans pictures).

Comments and suggestions are appreciated!

Here are the competition's guidelines:

Where in the world do you feel most connected to the past? Be it a battlefield, a castle, a church or a city, we’re asking would-be authors to write about their favourite historical place – and inspire us to visit.

In 400 words or less, we want you to tell us why your chosen location is so special. This is no tour guide – we’re looking for creative, inspiring writing that communicates the reasons for your enthusiasm.

Your choice of place can be anywhere that you deem to be historic, and it can be in the UK or anywhere in the world. It does not need to be a famous heritage site, nor somewhere where something momentous happened, but if it is such a place, that’s fine. Wherever you choose, you need to tell us why the place in question matters to you, and how and why it has inspired you to enjoy or study the past.

Entrants will be judged on the quality of their writing, and on the originality of their approach. Historical accuracy will considered.

 ---------------

The place I feel most connected to the past is a spot in Smith’s Bay on West Lake Okoboji, Iowa, USA.  I can tuck the boat near the shore to protect it from the prevailing southwest winds of Iowa summers, throw out the anchor, and enjoy a beautiful summer afternoon.  It is a phenomenal spot for boating, but it is the history that has happened and can be observed from that spot that make me feel most connected to the past.

I feel most connected to this place because I have spent nearly twenty summers there with family and friends.  There have been many smiles and laughs as we eat, drink, talk, laugh, swim, and tan in the warm summer sun.  From my little corner of Smith’s Bay, if I look to the southeast, I can see and hear the ferris wheel, roller coaster, and other rides and games at Arnold’s Park Amusement Park, which is celebrating its quasquicentennial this year.  I can see other boaters going to the amusement park, concert green space, food stands, or restaurants.  Occasionally, we’ll spot someone we know and they’ll wave, chat for a few minutes, or even tie up their boat and join us. 

Smith’s Bay is also rich in  three distinct eras of Okoboji’s history.  While sitting in the boat, directly to the south is Gardner Cabin, a site in which Sioux Indians killed white settlers in 1857 in what became known as the Spirit Lake Massacre.  From the water one cannot see Gardner Cabin because directly between it stands the starkest juxtaposition of Okoboji’s next two historical eras.  Pick’s Resort, which is now a half dozen small cottages, represents the development of Okoboji at the turn of the Twentieth Century when the lake was ringed by seasonal cottages or cabins.  Directly to the east of Pick’s Resort, where a few of its cottages used to stand, is a multi-million dollar mansion that is currently under construction.  As Okoboji has become more and more popular, lakeshore property has become more and more valuable.  As that property increases in value, cabins and cottages have given way to condos and mansions.  

From that place in the southwest corner of Smith’s Bay, I enjoy the water and weather, recall fond memories, observe significant changes over the last hundred years, and look forward to many more years of creating connections on Okoboji.

The Hawkeye Invasion of Maryland, DC, and Virginia

Prologue

The Big Ten expanded to fourteen teams adding Maryland and Rutgers for the primary purpose of bringing the New York, Baltimore, and Washington, DC media markets into the Big Ten sphere. I think a second reason was to provide the hundreds of thousands of Big Ten alumni living on the East Coast an easier opportunity to see their teams play.  Or provide alumni and others living in their home states (or foreign countries) a reason to take a vacation to Washington, DC or New York City.

When the Big Ten announced their future schedules a year or so ago and Iowa was scheduled to play at Maryland, Garv and I immediately started planning a trip.  Last spring, Garv sent out an email to friends and family and many people planned on joining us.

Most of the group in downtown College Park, MD

Here was the crew:

Me (Estherville, IA)

Garv and Lindsay (my brother-in-law and sister; Santiago, Chile)

Mom and Dad (Remsen, IA)

Ron and Jeanne (Garv's aunt and uncle but they're like family; Okoboji, IA)

Brandee (Ron and Jeanne's daughter; Las Vegas, NV)

Jean and Mark (Dad's sister and her boyfriend; Des Moines, IA)

Lynda and Pat (Jeanne's cousin and her husband; St. Louis, MO)

Betty (Jeanne's cousin; St. Louis, MO)

Nick and Jill (Garv and LG's friends; Des Moines, IA)
Saturday crew:

Brian (Ron and Jeanne's son; St. Petersburg, FL)

Andy (Brian's friend, Univ of Maryland alum; Westchester, PA)

Joe (Andy's friend, Washington, DC)

I asked everyone to share their favorite moments of the trip. Those that responded back I included in the narrative (Garv and LG, get your asses in gear). I arranged them chronologically so as to provide some structure.


You'll notice that there is a "Tony" and a "Tony as narrator" characters. The "Tony" voice will be my impressions of the trip.  "Tony the Narrator" will fill in the gaps in the narrative and provide context and explanation when necessary.  Anything in brackets is also my words.

Introduction

Lindsay: The fact that so many people from so many places met there.  It was especially meaningful to Garv and I because as soon as everyone knew we were going to be there, everyone booked their flights in a matter of days.
Garv:  The response to the email I sent saying we had locked in our itinerary was phenomenal.  Within a few short days, there were a dozen confirmed flight reservations.  In total, 16 people were in our group for the game.  That is an impressive response.

Bee: The fact that we got as many people there as we did, and it all worked out so smoothly.  Must have been the pristine planning. 

Tony the Narrator: Of course it was.

Mom: My favorite part of the trip was that so many of us came together from so many different places. 

Tony: I think the most amazing thing about the entire trip was that we all made it to DC on the evening of Thursday, October 16 or throughout the day on Friday.  This was my fifth trip to DC (and one of those trips was actually a six-week internship for Senator Grassley) so I'm very familiar with the DC area.  This trip, however, was more exciting because so many members of our group had never been to DC.

Thursday

Tony: I enjoyed the first evening when the my parents, Mark, Jean, Ron, Jeanne, the St. Louis crew, and Brandee were drinking Miller Lite and Yuengling, eating room service pizza, and catching up with each other.  There were eleven of us in the "living room" of my parents’ room at the Embassy Suites and since we were fueled by affection and alcohol, it kept getting louder and louder--even surpassing the decibels in my seventh period Civics class...

Friday

Dad and Ron: We enjoyed our Friday morning visit to Arlington National Cemetery and the Changing of the Guard.

Mom: My first best moment was getting off the metro [at the Arlington National Cemetery metro stop after we had visited the Cemetery] to come around the corner and there stood Lindsay and Garv, I thought they were meeting us at the capitol, they are good at surprises!  

Mom: My second best moment was the Capitol tour on Friday afternoon since Tony lined it up and knowing he spent some time in that building one summer. I also liked the Capitol because it was the first event we took as our big group. 

Most of the group after our Capitol tour

Tony: I enjoyed identifying the number of historical errors our tour guide made during the Capitol tour. I didn't correct them since doing so would have made me sound like a know-it-all jackass, and besides, I'm the only one who noticed them.  Here is a very important tip to anyone traveling to DC: arrange tours through your Senator or Representative!!! In some cases, especially with the Capitol tour, it will save you some waiting in line.
Garv: Visiting the monuments and memorials on the National Mall at night.  Something every U.S. citizen should do. 

Nick: Visiting the monuments in the National Mall at night.  I have seen them all in the day before, but it was a unique experience to see them all lit up at night.

Ron: Seeing the Vietnam Veterans Memorial.

Tony the Narrator: Ron is a Vietnam veteran.  Also, the brother of one of his friends was killed in Vietnam and we were able to find his name on the wall.  I know that was also very meaningful to Ron.

Saturday

Nick: Visiting the highest point in DC, Point Reno.  Not only that, but having a lively debate about whether to count it as a state highpoint.
Tony the Narrator: Nick and Jill were the only ones to visit Point Reno.

Bee at the Metro stop

Tony: I really enjoyed pre-game festivities.  We started at a well-known College Park bar which had a bunch of Hawkeye fans.  Then Brian and his friends met us at the bar and we proceeded through campus to a Hawkeye tailgate.  We drank Coors Light courtesy of friendly Hawkeye fans and were very well-prepared for the game.

Meeting Hawkeye fans at RJ's



The Baack's at the tailgate

The Klein's at the tailgate

Dad: The game.

Mom: My third best moment was game day, seeing the university, being together at the game (in spite of the loss).

Tony: In a perverse way, I enjoyed the game.  Did I drop a couple hundred F-bombs? Check (that's NOT an exaggeration). Did I bitch about Greg Davis and Ferentz?  Check. Did Mom and Lindsay yell at me or give me dirty looks?  Check.  Did I yell back at them for somehow thinking I would change my comportment at Hawkeye games?  Check.  Did I threaten some sort of boycott? Check.  Did I pout like a child who's just been grounded?  Check.  Did I put all of my Hawkeye gear in a pile and threaten to burn it?  No, I did not.  I only did that when I was ten.

Bee: And finally, third and two…just because.

Ron: Do not forget "third and two.”

Tony the Narrator: “Third and two” refers to the first play of the fourth quarter when Iowa had the ball.  During that drive, and in the previous drive, Iowa had been running the ball down Maryland’s throat.  So what does Greg Davis (Iowa’s offensive coordinator) call?  A pass! WTF.  What does Jake Rudock (Iowa’s QB) do?  Throw long.  And the check-down was open for the first down.  Ironically, Rudock has been critiqued by Iowa fans for throwing to the check-down receiver too often.  Of course, the time he should have checked down, he didn't.  So for the rest of the trip, Ron kept talking about and asking people about “third and two.”  Especially our next two events of the night...




Lindsay: Our Embassy Suites “Manager's Special”…always fun when mom is there!
Tony the Narrator: No one loves deals more than mom.  The Embassy Suites "Manager's Special" are complementary beverages and snacks for happy hour. And she absolutely loves it. We took advantage of this on Friday night and Saturday night.
Tony: Everyone, and especially me, getting their "money's worth" at the Saturday night Manager's special.  Hey, we had a lot of ridiculous and pathetic Hawkeye football to discuss...

Dad: Eating at Chadwick's on King Street.


Lindsay: Our first night at Chadwick's...


Tony: Listening to Garv critique Lindsay the next day for ordering two $9 glasses of wine when she should have just ordered a bottle.  The wine would have been drunk...(I'm using drunk as a verb and not an adjective.)

Bee: King Street – I wish we could have spent more time down there.
Tony the Narrator: King Street is an area of Alexandria, VA full of shops and restaurants.  At one of King Street was our hotel and the Metro stop.  At the other end was the Potomoc River.

Moms and daughters on the King Street trolley

Sunday

Bee: Coffee with the ladies at that Starbucks on King Street.  I could have sat there for hours.


Tony the Narrator: On Sunday, we took a boat from King Street to Mount Vernon.  If you go to the DC area, Mount Vernon is a must.  The mansion, the interpretive center, the grounds...everything is remarkable.

Bee: Mount Vernon, listening to Martha Washington talk about “her life.”


Jean: Mount Vernon and Mrs. Washington stand out for me.


Tony the Narrator: At Mount Vernon, there was an historical actor who played Martha Washington and she was incredible.  I do a little historical acting in class, but it's about .1% as good as she was.

On the piazza looking at the Potomoc

Our view from the piazza

Bee: The monuments at night, especially the Jefferson (and the others we did on that last night) – there was just a sense of peace there that night.

The Jefferson Monument

The MLK monument

Jeanne: That the last nights walk, with the Jefferson, FDR and the MLK monuments was my best moment.

Monday

Tony the Narrator: On Monday morning, the St. Louis crew left early in the morning by road and Ron, Jeanne, and I left in the morning for noon flight from BWI to MSP.  The rest of the crew was able to enjoy a little more time in DC.

Mark: I most enjoyed the Smithsonian National Museum of American History, especially the fragment of Plymouth Rock, Mohammad Ali’s boxing gloves and the golden spike that joined the two railroads in the 1800’s.

Dad: I enjoyed the Americans at War exhibit at the Museum of American History and the Holocaust Museum.




Tuesday
Tony the Narrator: Mom, Dad, Mark and Jean left Tuesday morning and Garv and Lindsay returned to Chile that night.

Compilations and Summations
Jeanne: Overall what amazed me the most was how the whole trip happened from start to finish. It seemed like it came together in a couple of days. The execution of the plan flowed like a well oiled machine, mostly due to you and Garv. The flights, subway, tours etc. I will never forget "Iowa off" and "where is Lindsay?".

Bee: Getting our entire crew on and off the Metro…Iowa off!

Tony the Narrator: “Iowa off” refers to the phrase we developed so as to facilitate an efficient boarding and unboarding of a Metro car.  “Where is Lindsay?” refers to when Lindsay happened to get on a different metro car (on the same train) than the rest of the group right after the game.




Tony: Everyone immediately panicked.  I was not at all concerned—after all, she has had months of practice in Chile.  My lack of concern did not please Mom in the least.  Between the game and this, I had really made her happy...

Tony: I thoroughly enjoyed flying Spirit airlines.  Ron, Jeanne, and I each paid $180 a piece for round trip tickets.  I love Spirit because they make you pay extra for everything except a personal item.  Carry-on bag? $35.  Checked bag? $30.  On-flight beverages? It will cost you.  Magazines in the seat back?  Nope.  It was great.  I gave my parents a few clothes, but in actuality, everything I needed I carried in my backpack.  And there was actually room in the overhead bin.

Mom: I loved it all, it is hard to pin point, it was a wonderful trip with loved ones. The line of the trip had to be Tony explaining why he could not run for president! Glad he loves all of us!

Jean: I loved everything about the trip. Seeing and walking in the places where our history actually occurred was probably the best part.  Mount Vernon and Mrs. Washington stand out for me. But then, so does the Capitol, the monuments, family and friends.
Garv: Looking forward to the Iowa Hawkeyes at Rutgers on September 24, 2016.

Tony: I'm ready for 2016...Hopefully the Hawkeyes will play better on the road that season.

Studying Indians at Dartmouth, Part 2

Dartmouth and Hanover, NH

When attending these workshops, I go as much for the locale as for anything else.  Dartmouth was appealing because it was Ivy League school deep in the heart of New England.  Normally, I'd have some great take-aways comparing regions of the country, but because I was almost exclusively on a college campus and the adjacent downtown area, my basis for comparison is college towns and not regions.

Dartmouth is one of eight Ivy League institutions.  Undergraduate tuition per year is $48,000 per year.  PER YEAR.  So students who attend Dartmouth are paying a great deal for that Ivy League education.  And if parents paying that much for the education, they’re not going to want Johnny and Susie texting home and complaining about the food and dorms. 

Thus, of all the workshops I’ve been to this had the best food and housing.  All the cafeteria food was great, but there were also two other cafes on campus where we could purchase items.  And we had $250 put on our cards for the week and I couldn’t spend it all no matter how outlandish I got, even though one lunch was almost $30 (spicy tuna rolls, salmon rolls, three twelve-ounce milks, a smoothie, and a banana). The dorms were also very nice.   There were twenty-eight people at the seminar and we each had out own room that was normally for two students.  The bathrooms and showers are normally communal (four residents per bathroom and sixteen per shower if my observations were correct) but because of the way my room was situated, I had my own bathroom and shower. 

For $48,000, there were also other perks we had access to.  Dartmouth has public wifi accessible all over campus and it was always very strong.  It was so strong that it worked throughout most of downtown.  All of the classrooms had so much technology that no one could figure out how to work it except the tech guys.  And even though Dartmouth only has 4000 undergraduates (Univ of Iowa has 21,000; Ole Miss has 16,000 (not all in Oxford)) and 2000 graduate students (Univ of Iowa has 9000; Ole Miss has 6000 (not all in Oxford) about  it seemed to me they had more buildings than Ole Miss and as many as Iowa. 

There are other amenities available for students on the Connecticut River (a mile from campus) such as canoeing and kayaking (available to the public) and a sun tanning area (wisely not available to the public in order to keep out the creepers).  After the last day of the workshop, a few people asked me if I wanted to go canoeing and I eagerly agreed.  We rented a canoe for $10 and paddled 45 minutes down the river and then 45 minutes back up.  Though using the term river is somewhat loose because it's dammed up so it's really more of a lake... But it was a great time!

Below is the libary.  This is the Dartmouth's version of the obligatory "building outline that's on every piece of university stationary." Iowa has the Old Capitol and Ole Miss has the lyceum.

Hanover has 15,000 people and the downtown is in a two block by two block area.   There are only five bars there, all of which are also restaurants.  There was a groups of us that went for beers every night but every place was pretty quiet, even Friday and Saturday night.  Obviously, it’s different in the summer than it would be in the school year, but it was much quieter than Iowa City or Oxford are in early August.  All of the restaurants/bars served interesting fare, rather than just bar food, which makes sense considering the socio-economics of the campus and community.  There was no Airliner or Rib Cage type place...and there certainly wasn't a Union, Fieldhouse, or Library...

Studying Indians at Dartmouth, Part 1

During the first week of August I attended a Gilder Lehrman American History teacher seminar in which I studied American Indians for a week at Dartmouth College, an Ivy League school, in Hanover, New Hampshire.  This was my second GL seminar and my eighth of these types of seminars overall (the other six were through the NEH).  I have now studied Pilgrims and Indians, George Washington, Mark Twain, FDR, Immigration in New York City, Latinos in California, the Civil War, and now American Indians.

When I was an undergraduate at the University of Iowa, I made American Indian History my de facto specialization.  It wasn't my specialty at Ole Miss, but I did manage to take a course on it.  Since I don't teach American History, my interest in this subject is not sated through my curriculum.  Thus, this was the perfect opportunity to learn, review, and reframe American Indian History and figure out ways in which I can incorporate it into my World History, Western Civilization, Geography and Civics courses.  Moreover, the professor leading the seminar, Colin Calloway, was a professor whose works I had read as an undergraduate.  He's one of the most prolific professors there is, publishing a new book about once every other year.  So it was a great opportunity to learn from him for a week.

The content in each of these workshops was/is immensely interesting and useful for teachers and is the reason I go. I will highlight some of the content that struck me for one reason or another. 

Part 1: The Content

A. A Brit as an expert on American Indians: Professor Calloway: Back in undergrad, the first time I read the biographical snippet on one of Professor Calloway’s books, I was immediately struck that he was a Brit writing about American Indian History.  That seemed odd.  But then I realized that there are lots of Americans who specialize in British history…or French, Russian, Chinese, African, Latin American, etc, etc.  I had gotten over that, but it’s something he obviously has to address quite frequently.  And it makes more sense one realizes that the United States has had 238 years (1776-2014) of relationships with American Indians.  The British had 260 years (1607-1867 (Jamestown to Canada’s independence) of relationships with American Indians.

Dr. Calloway discussing a Yanktonai Sioux headdress that is in the collection at the Hood Museum at Dartmouth.  The headdress is from the mid 1800s and was probably obtained from southeast South Dakota, northwest Iowa, or southwest Minnesota.  There wasn't a ton of information on it, but it was obviously of great interest to me.

B. Indians in US History: Usually when Indian History is taught, it starts from the East with Columbus, John Smith, the Pilgrims, etc encountering Indians in the East and then Americans interacting with Indians as they moved west.  Instead, Indian History should start in the center of the country, particularly with Indians in the Mississippi, Ohio, and Missouri River valleys before 1492.  Most teachers don't do this, but I already do, so it was good that my approach was reinforced.

C. Indians and Colonial America: A quote from Dr. Calloway when discussing the interaction between the sexes of each group: "People spend more time in bed together than trying to kill each other."  Titillating, of course, but he said it in the framework of the Iroquois spiritual world in which men and women both had power--men had the power to take life (hunting, war) and women had the power to give life (childbirth, farming).  Thus, before the Iroquois went to war, they would spend days working themselves into an emotional and spiritual state.  Part of this was abstinence because if they were going to take life, they couldn't mix with the force that gives life.  However, Dr. Calloway pointed out that contrary to the popular image of Indians as warriors who scalped white men and raped white women, most of the time they were not in the warrior-mode.  And that's when he made the statement about people in bed.

D. Indian Treaties: When Indians and Europeans started negotiating treaties, they operated under different assumptions concerning the land.  Indians initially believed that they were giving Europeans the opportunity to use the land, not own it or possess.  Indians, of course, would eventually figure out how Europeans and Americans interpreted the treaties.  Indians also had to come to understand the power of the written word.  In Indian diplomacy with each other, there was not the same finality to negotiations as there was when Europeans conducted diplomacy with each other.  Europeans and Americans, however, because of the permanency of the written word, regarded treaties with a finality that Indians didn't.  So even if there wasn't malice on the part of Europeans and Americans, there were often vast cultural differences that were very disadvantageous to Europeans and Americans

E. Indian Gifts: In Indian society, the most powerful were usually the poorest because they gave away everything they had in order to create as many bonds of reciprocity as possible.  To Euro-Americans, gift-giving did not have the same meaning since power came from the accumulation of goods.  This is not as foreign of a concept as it seems.  Modern politicians have made an art of giving things away in order to increase their power.  Modern politicians, however, do not impoverish themselves in the process...

F. Indian Country Before Lewis and Clark: When Lewis and Clark went through Indian country from 1804-1806, they were unsure of what was between the Mandan villages in present-day North Dakota and the Columbia River in Oregon.  This area, however, had been significantly affected by guns, smallpox (and other diseases), and horses brought by Europeans only about a hundred years before.  Guns entered the plains from British fur traders in the north.  Horses entered the plains from the Spanish in the south.  Smallpox entered from both directions. The Indian world Lewis and Clark entered had been drastically changed.

G. The three best anecdotes from the Lewis and Clark expedition were all things I'd already taught when I was at IKM (I don't teach them anymore because I don't teach American History): a) Lewis and Clark spent the winter of 1804-1805 in the Mandan villages.  Indians had very different views on sexuality than Americans and Europeans and many Plains  Indians believed that one's power could be transferred via sex.  Clark's slave, York, was believed by many Indians to possess immense power.  So York had a very enjoyable winter... b) One of the biggest problems during the whole expedition was mosquitoes.  The journals are full of complaints about them.  in Lewis's journal, he spelled mosquito thirty-eight different ways!  There was no standard English at the time.  c) There was one point during the expedition when Lewis wanted to speak to a Salish Indian.  So Lewis made a statement in English.  Labiche, one of the men on the expedition, then translated it into French.  Charbonneau, Sacagawea's husband, translated it into Hidatsa.  Sacagawea translated it into Shoshone.  A Shoshone finally translated it into Salish.  So: English-->French-->Hidatsa-->Shoshone-->Salish

H. Cherokee vs Cherokee: We spent a full day learning about Cherokee Removal, but  rather than focusing on the Trail of Tears and horrors and duplicity committed by Americans, Dr. Calloway had us focus on the debate within the Cherokee community.  Among the Cherokee, there were some who begrudgingly and reluctantly accepted removal once it was evident that the only other option was a war against the US they were sure to lose.  Others, however, opposed removal and this split caused significant acrimony within the Cherokee nation.  The division existed, of course, because of the presence of Americans, but Dr. Calloway's point was to complicate our view of history rather than see Indian relations with the US as a simple "Indians are good and Americans are bad" dichotomy.

I. Indian Empires: When we think of empires, it's usually of Rome, China, or Britain.  However, by 1850 the Comanche in the southern plains and the Sioux in the northern plains, because of the horse and gun culture, had also created empires in that they subjugated their neighbors, demanded tribute, and exercised suzerainty over a vast territory.  This mental model is important because it recasts the vision of what was happening in on the plains when Americans began settling there.

J. "Kill the Indian to Save the Man": In the late 1800s, Henry Pratt, the founder of the famous Carlisle Indian Boarding School in Pennsylvania, promoted a policy in which Indian culture would be wiped out in order to assimilate Indians into American society, thus ending Indian culture.  In the 1950s and 1960s, the Bureau of Indian Affairs wanted to promote assimilation and improve Indians' quality of life by encouraging them to move off the reservations and into urban areas.  Ironically, both policies had the effect of strengthening Indian cohesiveness.  Each of these policies brought Indians from different nations together and gave them a common language, English.  These Indians could share with each other their experiences with the US government and American people.  Moreover, they could work together to promote causes, protest injustices, and, most importantly to them, keep their culture alive.